This local crag is found about a mile from parking on a residential street in the affluent neighborhood of Montecito, California. The San Yaidro Falls Trail is used by dog walkers, hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers. It begins as a dirt trail, winding across paved roads, then turns into a fire road and, past the turnoff for the climbs, a single track trail that follows the creek. When it has been raining, swimming holes can be found along the creek, and a waterfall, less than two miles up the trail. The climbing area is small, but not often very crowded. The base area is flat and shaded, a pretty little open spot in the trees with a handful of the area’s classic climbs.
This is a small climbing area with a handful of climbs that range from beginner to very advanced. The rock is relatively solid and the belays comfortable. Most routes have access to rap rings and can be accessed via a scramble up and down a mildly technical gully.
From 101 exit San Ysidro in Montecito. Driving towards the mountains, make a right on East Valley Road and keep an eye out for Park Lane on the left. It’s a small sign, and difficult to spot. Drive up Park Lane and veer left onto Mountain Drive to the end where you will see a gate and the trailhead on the right. Do your best to park in the dirt, off the road, and be mindful that you are in a neighborhood.
From the parked car follow the designated trail. It is marked with signs and will lead you on and off the paved, residential streets, around chain link gates to a dirt fire road. Walk the fire road uphill about half a mile to a trail turning off to the left, down an embankment and winding across the creek to the base of the climbs. Poison Oak is plentiful in the creek-crossing section, and the trail is narrow, so be aware of this, and that Poison Oak can be found in the greenery surrounding the climbing area, as well.